Croatia and Bosnia Herzegovina in Winter – Dubrovnik, the Dalmatian Coast, and Mostar

Walk again, we talk again Sola Traveler I see. Walking through our world on our own two feet.  A sojourn through the Balkans is a trip indeed, through a city that has been in many hands and seen many, many feet. You’ll find strong ancient turreted walls and dragons, as seen on TV. Oh now, don’t fret – watch where you walk or your feet will get wet.  The place you seek, the place you’ll find, is in the sunny south of a land so kind. Once a city and a country shared its name, in what is now Dalmatia do you follow this game? You can arrive here by bus, car, boat or plane. For Sola Traveler this place to be is the city of Dubrovnik beside an azure sea.

Old Town Dubrovnik

The city of Dubrovnik (originally Ragusa) is home to over 42,000 people, and perhaps, hundreds of sprightly spunky cats. In existence since the 7th century, Dubrovnik and its inhabitants have survived earthquakes, wars, and even Hollywood across the centuries, maintaining their joy of life, delicious diet, and pristine waters. A UNESCO world heritage site so heartbreakingly beautiful, you’ll wonder if you aren’t dreaming as you wander the streets of Dubrovnik, talk to the locals and gaze out over the beautiful Adriatic Sea.

Winter in Dalmatia is generally mild, though strong cold winds do occasionally blow. If you the gondola is running, take the trip to the top of Mount Zned for stunning views of the city and the Dalmatian islands that surround Dubrovnik. If winds are high the gondola won’t run, but if it is, get on the gondola and go, you won’t regret it.

Drinks with a view.

Another not to be missed treat is the spectacular Café Buza. Snuggled into the cliffs just outside of the city wall, this hidden bar can be found by following signs inside the city that advertise “cold drinks with the most beautiful view”. Step through the hole in the wall and you’ll find Café Buza. This little drinks-only spot is open until just after sunset. Sit, relax, enjoy the music and watch the sunset with a delicious glass of Croatian wine or beer. Though prices are a little higher than other cafes in old town Dubrovnik, the views of Lokrum Island and the Adriatic make the few extra Kuna worth it.

 

 

Walking the city wall.

Dubrovnik is a walker’s paradise. The Pedestrian only old town Dubrovnik allows you to explore its clean limestone streets inside the city walls without the worry of traffic. In fact, cars can’t get to many parts of the old city. Most streets are sprawling limestone stairways leading up to apartments, restaurants, shops and churches from the main street of Stradun.

Once you’ve walked through the inner city be sure to walk the marvel that is the city wall. Twelve Kuna gains you admittance so you can climb up and down tower stairways, walk along gorgeous passageways and look out from turrets to the sea below. Gaze down at the tile roofs of Dubrovnik. You’ll see the people of Dubrovnik going about their lives and the cats of Dubrovnik going about theirs. The wall is approximately 1.2 miles long and will likely take you 2 – 3 hours to complete as there are many places you’ll want to stop along your journey. Across a small bay, you’ll see the fortress of Lovrijenac. Lovrijenac is also part of the city wall, and your ticket allows you entry here as well.

Walking the walls and street-stairs of old town Dubrovnik will help you work up an appetite.  Lucky for you the cuisine of Dubrovnik is excellent. Old town Dubrovnik has many little restaurants and konobas to choose from. You will be hard pressed to find bad food in Dubrovnik. Three great places this ravenous Sola Traveler chose during her too short stay are, the cozy Konoba Rozario, the chic Konoba Dalmantino and the lovely Lucin Kantun. You can’t say it too many times, Croatian food is delicious, and the three restaurants above all bring their own talents to the table.

At Konoba Rozario try the Brodetto, it’s yummy and traditional, as is the black risotto. Try the brandy with herbs it’s good. But be prepared, when your kind Croatian servers caution that the brandy is strong, they aren’t lying. But you can sober up while you eat a piece of delicious homemade orange almond cake. There is no loss here, the brandy is worth it, so is the almond cake, so is the server’s quiet smirk.

Konoba Dalmantino will temp you with Croatian delicacies made with a modern twist. You should absolutely try the cheese plate. Cheese plates are always good, especially when there are Pag Island cheeses on them. Another gorgeous option is the grilled shrimps with fennel, rocket, cheese and pine nuts. You could start your meal with a glass of Croatian brandy, and finish it with a glass of excellent Croatian wine. Some you all know, did just that and didn’t regret it for a second.

Lucin Kantun is tucked away on a small street just off Stradun. Love emanates from every corner of this pretty, little restaurant. Watch your chef caringly create every dish from within the open kitchen. The savory cream of lentil soup is divine. The shrimp risotto is rich and delightful. Lucin Kantun makes you feel as though you are a beloved guest dining in a private home.

Citizen of Dubrovnik.

Speaking of guests, don’t be surprised by the cats of Dubrovnik. As you may have heard, Dubrovnik is home to many, many pretty little kitty kitty meow meows. The human citizens of old town take great care with their feline neighbors. As you stroll, you may meet a curious cat or six. Some will stop to talk and beg a petting, others just watch to make sure you are behaving yourself in their fair city. The cats of Dubrovnik are lovely to behold, and the subjects of many tourist photos.

 

New Year’s Eve Fireworks.

Winter in Dubrovnik is a lovely time to visit for savvy travelers trying to get an idea of what life there is like.  Summer brings scads of people, so many that Dubrovnik has implemented a maximum capacity for old town. Winter offers fewer visitors, Christmas Markets, and New Year’s Eve celebrations. Dubrovnik hosts concerts and fireworks displays every year for New Year’s. Famous Croatian musicians perform for free in Luza Square at the end of Stradun. At the stroke of midnight, gaze upward as fireworks fly overhead, shot from the city walls to explode over the city. You can feel the explosions reverberate in your chest as fireworks sparkle and fall back to earth. So, grab a cup of kuhano vino and settle in with the laid-back toast the end of one year and the beginning of the next.

You’ll likely enter old town Dubrovnik from Pile Gate, the impressive arched gate that connects old town to the rest of Dubrovnik by bridge. You can reach the old harbor from either the Ponte Gate or the Fish Market Gate. Both gates are located near Luza Square at the opposite end of old town Dubrovnik, a short walk down Stradun from Pilate gate. Once you are outside the wall of the old city wander along the wall at the edge of the Adriatic, or pause and sit on the jetty. Lovely views abound.

Mostar and the Countryside of Bosnia Herzegovina

Old town Mostar.

Day trips offer a great way to explore once you’ve anchored yourself in a city. Small group tours are an easy way to accomplish this. You can focus on the countryside and ask your guide questions.  Also, if you are traveling on your own, small group tours are a great way to join other people. Tour guides in Croatia generally speak English and are willing to help tourists out with any information they can. The day trip to Mostar in Bosnia Herzegovina is the trip this intrepid Sola Traveler took out of Dubrovnik.

Approximately three hours from Dubrovnik is the city of Mostar located in the country of Bosnia Herzegovina. Named for its stunning and famous Stari Most (Most means bridge) the old part of Mostar is truly an amazing example of medieval Ottoman architecture. Originally built in the 16th century, Stari Most is a single arch bridge made of stone that spans the Neretva River. The bridge and old part of the city are now protected as a UNESCO world heritage site.  Reconstruction was finished in 2004 following shelling that destroyed the bridge during the Bosnian Conflict in 1993. You will see damage from shelling during the war immediately outside of the old city in Mostar. The damage is sobering to see, but makes you appreciate the beauty of the rebuild that hopefully extends beyond the stones.

The famous bridge of Mostar.
Walking the bridge of Mostar.

Cross the bridge and marvel that it was built and then built again. It is truly a site to behold. The arch is steep but when you reach the middle stop and look out at the clear green water of the Neretva River. Then continue your cobblestoned journey. Bosnian artisans are known for their metalwork. There are many shops where you can purchase enameled copper and silver filigreed items. The streets of old Mostar are quiet and hauntingly beautiful. Even more beautiful are the people of Mostar. Shy and kind, the people of Mostar are diverse and friendly and welcoming the tourists walking in their midst.

The journey from Dubrovnik to Mostar has many amazing places to visit along the way. Just over the border from Croatia, and twenty-five miles south of Mostar are the Kravica waterfalls. Though they can be hard to find, (this is where a small tour guide comes to your rescue) they should not be missed. The falls are approximately 75 feet high and crystal clear aqua blue water cascades over them. In the summer a small café is open, and many people spend the day, swimming in the pools at the base of these beautiful falls.

The waterfalls at Kravica.

After Kravica, another neat stop is the village of Pocitelj. Another protected UNESCO world heritage site, Pocitelj is a medieval and Ottoman stone village built into a hill above the Neretva River approximately 19 miles south of Mostar.

UNESCO site, the village of Pocitelj.

Getting to Dubrovnik

Getting to Dubrovnik is relatively easy. Dubrovnik has an international airport, so you can fly in. You can also rent a car. Dubrovnik is approximately a six-hour drive from Zagreb (Croatia’s capital city). You can’t take a train to Dubrovnik however; Croatia has an excellent network of buses and bus travel is one of the most popular ways to travel between cities. Buses in Croatia are relatively inexpensive and most have Wi-Fi.

Getting Around and Other Inside Information

Below are some tidbits of traveling information to help you hit the ground running.

  •  Tourist High Season – July and August.
  • Tourist Information Center – The Dubrovnik Tourist office is in near Pile Gate just outside of the old city: Brsalje 5, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia
  • Dubrovnik Airport – The airport is approximately 9.5 miles from Dubrovnik’s city center.Dobrota 24, Močići, 20213 Čilipi Croatia.
  • Taxis – There are taxi stands at the airport, bus station, and outside of Pile Gate.
  • Bus Station –Many Croatians take the bus between different cities. Trains are not used as much as in other European cities. There are many bus lines. Tickets are generally inexpensive. Check buscroatia.com or getbybus.com for routes and ticket I took a bus from Zadar to Dubrovnik for $28 (190 Kuna). You can purchase your ticket at the station, though advance tickets can be ordered online (purchase in advance during the tourist season). Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44 A, 20000 Dubrovnik.
  • Ferry – You can take a Ferry from Dubrovnik to several local islands, other mainland ports and multiple ports in Italy. Obala Ivana Pavla 2, 20000 Dubrovnik, Croatia.
  • Groceries – In addition to the open-air market in old town, the grocery store chain Kozum has branches throughout Croatia, including Dubrovnik.
  • Pharmacies – You can easily spot pharmacies in Croatia, they are marked with a green cross.

Sola Traveler Croatia – Zadar and Plitvice in December

Well, Well Sola Traveler here’s a place to see, on the Dalmatian Coastline, beautiful as can be. Not only can you walk along the azure shore, you can travel inland, to a national park so amazing, your jaw will hit the floor. Well, the trail really. These places so beautiful; beautiful it’s true, are not that far from each other, only an hour or two. So, put them on your list and go toot suite, travel Sola Traveler on your own two feet.

Petar Zoranic Square in Zadar.

Old Town Zadar

Zadar, with a population of approximately 75,000 people, offers quite a bit to experience. If you visit during the Christmas holidays, you can take advantage of the Advent Market near Land Gate. Christmas markets in Croatia are open for approximately four to six weeks, the one in Zadar runs from the first week in December through the first week in January. While you are there, enjoy live performances, twinkly lights, kuhano vino (mulled wine), kolbasica (sausages), fritule (donuts), conversation and laughter – life could be worse.

Old town Zadar is a walled city. You can visit or if you like, inhabit old town, and stay in one of the many apartments available to rent. While you are there, stroll along Riva, the promenade that runs along the Adriatic Sea. Make your way down to the Sea Organ, pause – and listen to the song the sea sings for you. If you want to see what the seas’ songs look like, amble over to The Greeting to the Sun, a solar art installation that is best viewed at or just after sunset. The two installations work together; and the Greeting’s lights mirror the Sea Organ’s music.

The Monument to the Sun.

Zadar also has the ruins of a Roman forum, the Land Gate and many cathedrals and churches to see. There is a daily open air market near the city gates on the marina side of old town. At the market, you can buy fresh fruits and vegetables, meat, fish and cheese. When the lovely people of Zadar tell you to get the Pag Island cheese, do it. They are doing you a favor. You will not regret it.

Croatia has really, really, excellent food. In Zadar, there’s the bright and modern Restaurant Bruschetta. Located just off the Riva, Restaurant Bruschetta serves lovely Mediterranean and Dalmatian dishes. Tucked away next to a beautiful church inside old town on Ulica Brne Krnautica (Ulica is Street in Croatian), is the cozy traditional favorite Zadar Jadera. The food is authentic, delicious, and the staff is kind. There are many good restaurants and konobas in Zadar to choose from. If you stay long enough, you can try them all.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice in Winter.

Plitvice (pronounced plit-vich-eh), is an astoundingly beautiful national park located approximately one and a half hours from Zadar. Though you can easily drive yourself, booking a small group day tour can make your trip even better. Tour guides speak English, and many other languages. Having a guide also brings VIP privileges like learning the history of the park and jumping to the top of the line.

Lines at Plitvice are known to be very long in high season, and Plitvice is so beautiful you will want to get in and start hiking as soon as you can. Though it is an easy hike, it is still a hike so it’s a good idea to wear comfortable shoes and dress appropriately. The park is open year-round. And winters in Plitvice, can be cold.

The park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once you are inside you can hike between 16 crystal clear mineral lakes. Travertine limestone has created terraced waterfalls and there’s even a cave. Plitvice Lakes look like a fairy tale come true. Once you reach the largest of the lakes (Kozjak) you will glide almost silently across the clear blue lake on a pollution free electric boat. Sit back and enjoy the view. When you reach the opposite shore, you can walk back above the lakes, or a take a tram back near the gate of the park.

Booking a Small Group Tour in Zadar

So, small group tours are great, but which one should you take? The Romeo and Juliet Travel Agency located in old town Zadar was the choice of this intrepid Sola Traveler. Friendly and professional, my guide met me at my apartment, walked me to the car, and drove me to Plitvice. Romeo and Juliet focuses on quality not quantity. Their goal is to take a personal approach to their guests; when my guide arrived, she arrived with my lunch.

This approach sets the day up with a sense of fun, and makes you feel welcome. Your tour will generally have no more than 10 persons per trip, and they will even do tours for one or two people. Another great thing about Romeo and Juliet Travel Agency; they’re open year-round. If you trip is in the off season, they can help you out. Just know that some excursions aren’t available during the winter. To tour the Plitvice Lakes, the Kornati Islands and many other beautiful Croatian places, do yourself a favor and book your tour through the Romeo and Juliet Travel Agency.

Getting to Zadar

Getting to Zadar is relatively easy. Zadar has an international airport, so you can fly in directly.  You can rent a car. Zadar is approximately a two-hour drive from Zagreb (Croatia’s capital city). You can take a train from Zagreb to Zadar. Trains are not widely used in Croatia however; you are better off taking a bus. Croatia has an excellent network of buses and are one of the most popular ways to travel between cities. Croatian buses are relatively inexpensive and most buses have Wi-Fi. You also can take a ferry from Italy to Zadar.

Getting Around and Other Inside Information

Below are some tidbits of traveling information to help you hit the ground running.

  • Tourist High Season – July and August.
  • Tourist Information Center – The Zadar Tourist office is in Old Town. Mihovila Klaica 1, HR-23000, Zadar, Croatia
  • Romeo and Juliet Travel Agency – F.Grisogona 3, Zadar, +385 98 912 7402. http://romeoandjuliet.hr/
  • Zadar Airport – The airport is approximately 8 miles from Old Town Zadar. 23222, Zemunik Donji, Croatia
  •  Taxis – There are taxi stands at the airport, bus station and train station.
  •  Uber – Uber operates in Croatia, though its network of drivers isn’t as expansive as in the USA. Also, Uber in Europe doesn’t accept PayPal. They do take Visa (I suggest changing your Uber method of payment. Use the same card you use for traveling).
  • Bus Station –Many Croatians take the bus between different cities. Trains are not used as much as in other European cities. There are many bus lines. Tickets are generally inexpensive. Check www.buscroatia.com or www.getbybus.com for routes and ticket I took a bus from Zagreb to Zadar for $8 (55 Kuna). You can purchase your ticket at the station, though advance tickets can be ordered online (purchase in advance during the tourist season). Ante Starcevica 1, 23000 Zadar, Croatia
  • Train Station – Croatia is part of the Euro Rail network. You can travel to Zadar from other European cities. You can also reach all major cities except Dubrovnik by rail (you can take a bus to Dubrovnik from Split). Visit https://www.raileurope.com for more information. Ulica Ante Starcevica, 23000, Zadar, Croatia
  • Ferry – You can take a Ferry from Zadar to several local islands and a ferry to Ancona Italy. Luka Gazenica Gazenicka cesta, 23000 Zadar, Croatia
  • Groceries – In addition to the open-air market in old town, the grocery store chain Kozum has branches throughout Croatia, including Zadar.
  •  Pharmacies – You can easily spot pharmacies in Croatia, they are marked with a green cross.

Sola Traveler Croatia – Zagreb and Varazdin in Winter

Well Sola Traveler, you’re back at it again, I see. Traveling the world on your own two feet. Some would say there’s a new place to be that’s off the beaten path. Some would say new, Croatia – what are you, daft? Old or new to you, does it matter? Get your feet there quickly, pitter patter, pitter patter. Lots of art to see and food to eat this Croatia place is oh so neat. The people are kind and the air is clean, and Zagreb the capital city, is a place  you should see.

Exploring Zagreb

Licitars hang in Donji Grad Christmas Markets.

The greater Zagreb metropolitan area is home to approximately 1.3 million people. Teeming with art, theater, music, parks and good food,  Zagreb makes it easy to have a good time. The city is extremely walk-able, and public trams make getting around even easier. Zagreb hosts Christmas markets in winter, which; have been voted the best Christmas markets in Europe for two years running (2016 and 2017). Stroll through the beautiful markets. While you are there, toast the crisp cold air with a cup of steaming kuhano vino (mulled wine), kolbasica (sausage) or chestnuts that were roasted on an open fire. Twinkling licitars (hearts) and chandeliers light the streets. Live music, boutiques, art galleries and laughter are just some of the possibilities you’ll encounter as you explore the quirky and romantic city that is Zagreb.

Gornji Grad

Gornji Grad (Upper Town) is one of the oldest parts of Zagreb. Tkalcevica Street (Ulica Ivana Tkalcevica) is a former creek turned lovely funky colorful pedestrian friendly street lined with café bars, restaurants and boutiques.

A street mural on Tkalcevica street.

Start your day or simply while away the hours having a coffee (kava) or glass of wine,and watch Zagreb stroll by. Most café bars in Croatia do not serve food, but none seem to mind if you bring in a snack, a little pastry or kolbasica to enjoy with your drink. You can spend hours talking about everything and nothing in a café in Zagreb. Also, most cafes have free Wi-Fi. Check the bottom of your receipt for the password. Pass a few minutes sitting in a little park with one of Croatia’s famous writers, Zagorka. When you are ready, make your way down Tkalcevica Street and very quickly you’ll land in Ban Jelacic Square (Trg Bana Jelacica), the center square of Zagreb.

Tkalcevica street.

Just north of Ban Jelacic Square is Kaptol one of the two original villages that merged to create Zagreb (the other is Gradec).  Walk two minutes from Ban Jelacic Square and you will discover the Dolac Market, a glorious open air market known as “The Belly of Zagreb”. Open seven days a week from 6:30 AM, Dolac is a great place to buy flowers, fresh produce, meat, cheese and dairy as well as locally made arts and crafts. Produce is on the upper level, in the open air, Dairy and meats are enclosed on the floor below. Above the market, you will see the twin spires of Zagreb’s main cathedral.

Whatever you do, don’t miss Gradec as you explore Gornji. If you’re game, walk along the hillside path that skirts outside edge the neighborhood of Gradec. From the path, you’ll be able to see some of the city’s original fortifications. Brace yourself for the cannon that is shot out of Lotrscak Tower every day at noon. There are steps from Tkalcevica Street (Ulica Ivana Tkalcevica) that allow you to climb to the top of Gradec.  If you aren’t into steps (and there are many), take the Funicular, the mini tram located just west of Ban Jelacic Square at the corner of Ilica and Tomic Streets. The Funicular will hall you up a track to the top of Gradec and deposit you on the Strossmayer Promenade. There are also steps available to climb at the station. When you arrive, sit with a famous Croatian writer on the promenade.  Then stroll about and see if you can find the neighborhood’s hidden courtyards.

Strongly consider taking a walking tour in Zagreb. Walking tours usually last around two hours and guides speak English. One particularly fun tour is the Ghost and Dragons Walking Tour. Meet your guide, at night in front of Stone Gate for a candlelight walk to the spookiest places Gradec offers.  Maybe you’ll return, maybe, you won’t. If you do make it out alive celebrate life by packing your belly full of delicious food and drink at Konoba Didov San. At this cozy family owned restaurant, you won’t be allowed to leave hungry, nor will you want to.

Ivan Mestrovic’s sculpture “The Well of Life” outside of the Zagreb Opera House in Donji Grad.

Gradec is also home to Croatia’s Presidential Palace and Parliament, St. Mark’s Cathedral, and because Zagreb is romantic at heart, the original Museum of Broken Relationships. The museum consists of curated mementos of loves lost sent in by your fellow humans from all over the globe. It’s a sweet and bittersweet exhibit. Commiserate and celebrate what it means to love, and if you are brave, leave a memento of your own for others to see.

Gric Tunnel

There’s one more thing, a kind of secret to explore. Before you leave Gradec walk back down the Strossmayer Promenade, past the famous writer and towards Ulica Mesnicka (Mesnicka Street).  Next, make your way around, and  walk into the hill, right into the Gric Tunnel. This recently renovated tunnel was originally built as a World War II bomb shelter.  The tunnel takes approximately 5 minutes to walk through. The well-lit passageway hosts the occasional art exhibit and performance. And, if sola traveler, you take the right exit (Ilica Street), you will emerge onto Donji Grad.

Donji Grad

During the winter, Lenuci’s Horseshoe is where the biggest and brightest Christmas markets are located. If you are visiting the markets, wander through the twinkly lights, listen to live music, go ice skating, eat and drink as many delicious foodstuffs as you can.  But save some room in your belly because Donji Grad also has excellent shopping and restaurants galore.

The Christmas market in Zrinjevac Park – part of Lenuci’s Horseshoe.

One great restaurant to try for traditional Croatian cuisine is Vinodol. Located on Ulica Nikole Tesle (Nikola Tesla was Croatian by the way), Vinodol is elegant and reasonably priced for the quality of the food. If you eat yourself silly and can’t face the easy walk back, trams run up the street past the Horseshoe from the central train station and can haul you back up to Ban Jelacic Square and beyond.

Varazdin

A Varazdin city street.

Speaking of beyond, a little over an hour north of Zagreb is the city of Varazdin (vair-azh-din). In Varazdin you will find a medieval castle, shops and many beautiful baroque catholic churches and cathedrals to explore. The city was also for a short time the capital of Croatia. Walk the over the bridge past the castle and into the streets of Varazdin. Seek out the many hidden art exhibits including a love lock installation.

A hidden art installation in Varazdin.

Take a break from shopping and exploring the castle grounds to take kavana (sit down to coffee). Kavana Grofica Marica is the perfect spot to warm up on your winter journey, or any journey for that matter. Located on Varazdin’s main square, the popular kavana cafe offers very good coffee, cake and light snacks. Have a seat in its elegant yet laid back dining room. Sit as long as you like, and indulge in the Croatian custom of speaking of everything and nothing at all. Simply enjoy your kava and the company of those around you.

Trakoscan from below on a cold winter’s day.

After you’ve recharged it’s time to make your way to the Croatian countryside to the castle of Trakoscan.  Founded in the 1300’s, Trakoscan Castle sits high upon a hill near the Slovenian border. For over 400 years the Drakosic family owned Trakoscan. Then, in 1944 the castle became the property of the Croatian people. Imagine yourself living in times past and gazing down from the castle to the road far, far below. Trakoscan is good for your heart, both in terms of romance and cardiovascular health. The climb up to the castle is a work out. For 30 Kuna (15 Kuna for school children) adults can enter Trakoscan castle and view castle antiquities and the rooms where Trakoscan’s inhabits lived.

The grounds also include a forest and lake. Exploring the forest and lake is free. Warmer seasons make picnicking on the castle grounds a delight. Just know, photography inside the castle is not allowed, but there are souvenirs for purchase.

Looking down at Trakoscan’s frosty December forest and lake.

Getting Around and Other Inside Information

Below are some tidbits of traveling information to help you hit the ground running.

  • Tourist High Season – July and August.
  • Zagreb Airport – Located approximately 6.5 miles from City Center.
  • Taxis – There are taxi stands at the airport, bus station and train station.
  • Uber – Uber operates in Zagreb, though its network of drivers isn’t as expansive as in the USA. Also, Uber in Europe doesn’t accept PayPal. They do take Visa (I suggest changing your Uber method of payment. Use the same card you use for traveling).
  • Bus Station – Many Croatians take the bus between different cities. Trains are not used as much as in other European cities. There are many bus lines. Tickets are generally inexpensive. Check buscroatia.com or getbybus.com for routes and ticket I took a bus from Zagreb to Zadar for $8 (55 Kuna). You can purchase your ticket at the station, though advance tickets can be ordered online (purchase in advance during the tourist season).
  • Train Station – Croatia is part of the Euro Rail network. You can travel to Zagreb from other European cities. You can also reach all major cities except Dubrovnik by rail (you can take a bus to Dubrovnik from Split). Visit https://www.raileurope.com for more information.
  • U.S.A. Embassy – The embassy is located near the Zagreb airport at: Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2, 10010 Zagreb Croatia. Website: https://hr.usembassy.gov
  • Zagreb hosts other embassies too, it is the capital of Croatia after all. The Spanish Embassy is in Gornji Grad, for example. It’s good to know where embassies are when you are traveling, but as my taxi driver Denis cheekily pointed out when we drove past the U.S. Embassy, hopefully you never need one.
  • Tourist Information Centers – There are several offices in Zagreb, including Ban Jelacic Square and on Strossmayer Promenade, in the bottom of Lotrscak Tower in Gornji Grad. The staff is extremely helpful and kind. Visit the Zagreb Tourist Board site (in Croatian) for locations http://www.tzgz.hr/kontakt.
  • Tram Tickets – You can purchase Tram tickets at ZET stores, Tisak Kiosks( newsstands often found in bus and train stations) or from the Driver directly. You can get single ride, and various passes good for a day, week month or even year.
  • Groceries – In addition to the Dulac Market, the grocery store chain Kozum has branches throughout Croatia, including Zagreb.
  • Pharmacies – You can easily spot pharmacies in Croatia, they are marked with a green cross.